Shokudo Marushin is Shintaro Nakamura's second act. Now 50, the rake-thin chef's story has alternated between cooking and music. From sushi and punk to power pop and teishoku (set menu cuisine) to be precise.

Nakamura opened Marushin, a bijou neighborhood restaurant, with his wife Kei around six months ago. The restaurant — and the food — is as unpretentious as the pair.

In 2018, Nakamura, who's been working at teishoku restaurants since his early 20s, decided the time had come to set up his own restaurant.