While much of the world seeks a return to clean living, pesticide-free produce, free-range poultry and meat, Teruaki Nakamata, of Yakitori Souten, is already there, preparing and serving la creme de la creme — jidori chicken — for nearly 15 years.
In order for a chicken to qualify as Japan Agricultural Standard- (JAS) certified jidori, the birds, which are a cross between a native Japanese breed and an imported commercial breed, must have at least a 50 percent native bloodline. Free-range, organic and free of growth hormones, only 1 percent of Japan's domestic chicken market meets the strict JAS requirements. Far less is expected from meigaradori (commercial broilers).
Souten's three main jidori hail from Kochi, Iwate and Oita prefectures, the latter famous for its Toyono-shamo breed. Souten's menu also includes organic French capon from Kagoshima Prefecture.