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PST: The large neon letters shining in the evening gloom spell out a very familiar welcome. And once you’re inside, so do the sizzling pizzas with their rough-formed, carbon-flecked rims being pulled from the squat, no-nonsense, gunmetal-black, wood-fired oven. Anyone who has eaten at the original Pizza Studio Tamaki will feel very much at home at its new Roppongi spin-off.

It’s not a clone. PST Roppongi, which opened in mid-September, is bigger and sleeker, with plenty of tables that can be moved together for larger parties. It also boasts some very welcome outside seating. But the best news is that owner-pizzaiolo Tsubasa Tamaki himself is working the oven, so you know the pizzas will be great.

For the initial few months, while Tamaki gets the new premises up and running smoothly, he is offering a pared down version of the menu at his original restaurant. The pizzas are every bit as good, whether the simple Marinara or Margherita, or his trademark Tamaki or Nduja versions. Look for the monthly special, too: right now it is sanma (Pacific saury) and sweet fresh-season kabu (turnip) with sudachi citrus on the side. Outstanding.

There are differences, though. At the new Roppongi branch, Tamaki is offering smaller “half-size” pizzas. He is also toying with the idea of serving rectangular pizza slices for the lunchtime trade.

Open daily 5-11 p.m. (lunchtime TBA); half-size pizzas from ¥1,290, regular from ¥2,170; English menu; some English spoken

In line with COVID-19 guidelines, the government is strongly requesting that residents and visitors exercise caution if they choose to visit bars, restaurants, music venues and other public spaces.

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