All the best restaurants require considerable outlay. Usually that means a hefty dent in your bank balance. At Homemade Ramen Muginae the demand is not on your pocketbook but your time.

Just reaching this simple, bright, nine-seat noodle counter entails a trek out to nether Omori. And then, once you’re there, the wait on the street outside is often as much as an hour. It’s worth every minute.

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