At its most elemental, cooking is experimentation: a bit of this, some of that, hey presto. In Japan, the experimentation is mostly confined to the kitchen. It’s unlikely restaurants such as London’s Dans le Noir, where diners eat in darkness sans phones, would take off here.

Fortunately at Tan, a new restaurant opened by Yuko Kuwamura, the doyenne of Kyoto cooking, the experimentation extends from the kitchen to the dining room, where there’s only one table and patrons share plates. In one sense it’s a small step, but to borrow a phrase, it’s also a giant leap.

Unable to view this article?

This could be due to a conflict with your ad-blocking or security software.

Please add japantimes.co.jp and piano.io to your list of allowed sites.

If this does not resolve the issue or you are unable to add the domains to your allowlist, please see out this support page.

We humbly apologize for the inconvenience.

In a time of both misinformation and too much information, quality journalism is more crucial than ever.
By subscribing, you can help us get the story right.