The wraps came off one of Tokyo's latest renovation projects in November, unveiling a host of sparkling new shops and restaurants. But Nakameguro Koukashita is a development with a difference: It's just one story high, extends half a kilometer, and brings new meaning to the term "dining under the tracks."

In the past, the idea of ducking into an eatery under the city's elevated railways meant slumming it with basic food, cheap booze and smoky, boisterous fun. Times are changing, as evidenced by the enthusiastic, well-heeled crowd converging on Koukashita.

There's plenty for everyone here, from the standing bars where you prop up the counter while nibbling on oysters, seafood, oden (simmered hotpot) or teppanyaki to curry shops, new-wave ramen, Vietnamese-themed gyōza pot stickers and even a Spanish-style barbecue restaurant with wine and grilled meats. Arrive early or expect to wait in line at any of them.