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Hatsudai has a lot going for it. This quiet low-rise residential neighborhood just minutes west of Shinjuku boasts a friendly traditional shōtengai (shopping street) and a lively annual Awa Odori dance festival. Now add to that a really outstanding restaurant.

Anis opened in early August to considerable buzz among the Tokyo cognoscenti. And with good reason: Susumu Shimizu is one of Tokyo’s hottest, most accomplished new-generation chefs, with an impressive CV in both France and Japan. And here he is striking out and setting up a place of his own.

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