Sweetshops don't get much more traditional than Takemura; inside and out it is a classic. Founded in 1930, this handsome two-story wooden building has stood untouched in the backstreets of Kanda-Sudacho, with its stone lantern, shrubs, the little palisade of bamboo and verge of greenery.

It's not just the architecture that sets it apart. Yes, this is the way most of Tokyo used to look back in the day. However, it's no musty museum piece. What makes it truly remarkable is that it operates at exactly the same rhythm as you'd have found 30, 50, 80 years ago — and with just the same menu.

Duck under the small noren half-curtain, slide open the door and install yourself at one of the impeccably polished tables. You have a choice between chairs in the main area or zabuton cushions in the raised tatami room to one side. Whichever, you will be served a small cup of tea to sip on as you peruse the short menu.