Despite its funny-sounding name, the Sakenic is a compelling tipple. A fizzy mix of sake, soda and tonic water with an orange twist, it is light and refreshing, with a balance of sweetness and acidity that brings to mind a gin and tonic with less of a bite. The drink is one of the most popular items at Sake Hall Hibiya Bar, an establishment in Ginza, Tokyo, that specializes in sake cocktails. At roughly 8 percent alcohol, it's about half as strong as straight sake.

Perhaps scarred by college-era memories of "sake bombs," I'm not alone in viewing sake cocktails with a measure of skepticism, but the fruity drinks at Sake Hall Hibiya Bar are designed to be approachable. Although some of the cocktails on the menu are too sweet for my taste, they seem to appeal to a wide range of consumers.

"The cocktails are especially popular among women," manager Toshiro Kobayashi tells me. Minutes later, he serves a round of sake cocktails to two young men seated at the next table.