One area of Tokyo that remains off many people's radar is the small quadrant known informally as Upper Shibuya. Far from the neon glare of the Hachiko Crossing, it has more in common with Aoyama, apart from the prices. Lower overheads mean affordable restaurants, and few of them are better — or better value — than Abasque.

Just a couple of steps from busy Roppongi-dori, it has the kind of clean, modern exterior that's easy to overlook. You might notice the wine bottles by the entrance and the bunch of large dried peppers hanging on the door. But there's little to tip you off to what a fine little place this is, or how unusual.

Abasque is one of the few restaurants in Tokyo to focus on the food of the Pays Basque in Southwest France. In recent years, the global spotlight has rightfully shone on the brilliant new-wave cuisine of the chefs in Spain's Basque Country. But the tradition of eating well runs every bit as deep on the French side of the Pyrenees too.