The idea of the wine specialist “stand bar” has been around in Tokyo for quite a few years, melding the blue-collar tradition of the tachinomi (standing-only) sake counter with the more contemporary enthusiasm for the fruit of the vine. But adding a proper food menu to that equation is far less common, least of all on the scale achieved by Fujiya Honten Grill Bar.

One of our longtime favorites is Buchi, a chic little watering hole on the westernmost fringe of Shibuya. Seven years old now, it still looks as sharp as when it first arrived on the scene, and just as welcoming. It also still has a surprisingly extensive menu for such a small space. The drinks list is split between wine (20 by the glass from ¥500; far more by the bottle, from ¥2,500), sake and shochu, and the food spans a similar divide, encompassing carpaccio, sashimi, stews, kushiyaki grills and three or four kinds of pasta.

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