In this punishing heat, a lot of people complain they have lost all appetite for food. We say: Change your definition of the word "food." At this time of year, we gain a significant proportion of our nourishment from that most essential of food groups: beer.

We have little time for the empty calories of fizzy, tasteless mass-market lager (and none at all for happoshu and all other canned "frankenbeers"). But we can linger at great length — and often do — with flagons of wholesome craft ales brewed with integrity and character. During this long, hot summer one of our favorite places for doing so has been the aptly named August Beer Club.

There are five compelling reasons for making your way to this casual, unprepossessing, glass-fronted hangout on the Hiroo side of Roppongi. You will find them being dispensed from the gleaming taps that adorn the small bar just inside the front door.