Is there any finer fast food than a well-constructed taco or, better yet, its bulked-up big brother, the burrito? At their best, they're wholesome and filling, nutritious and versatile, a square meal rolled up in a package that's both portable and tasty.

They're also highly affordable and unbeatably quick to serve and eat. That's certainly the way you find them at Frijoles, a stylish little specialist taqueria that opened at the beginning of this year on a quiet side street in the heart of Azabu-Juban.

Frijoles isn't the first place in the city to serve these Mexican-born, U.S.-bred staple snacks — not by several decades. Where it breaks refreshing new ground, though, is that it doesn't dress them with the usual stereotypical Tex-Mex trappings. You won't find exotic tourist posters, Zapata sombreros or quaint Day of the Dead knickknacks. You're there to eat, not pretend you're in Tijuana.