It's awfully damp and chilly in winter alongside Meguro-gawa, the deep, concrete-lined creek that runs through Naka-Meguro. In summer, the cherry trees that line each bank provide blissful dappled shade, but at this time of year their boughs are bare.

Warmth and nourishment are called for: Hashidaya supplies plenty of that.

If the welcome glow from this handsome timber-clad two-story building does not lure you in, then the sight of chefs at work over a charcoal grill should do the trick. The clincher is the menu, with its promise of bubbling nabe hot pots and other fare that stokes the inner flames. Once inside, there's no guarantee you will be seated, though. Twice on impulse we entered and were (most politely) turned away. The third time we made sure to reserve well in advance.