TAKAYAMA, Gifu Pref. — In a country that deems houses well past their best-by date after 20 or 30 years, and fit only for destruction and reform, it is a minor miracle of sorts that wooden private houses built in the Edo Period (1603-1867) remain almost intact here, and that most of them are still in use or inhabited.

But here they are, standing tall and true even after a couple of centuries, lining the streets alongside ancient temples, shrines and traditional craft workshops in this "living museum" of a city.

It is possible to walk from one side of town to the other in around 25 minutes. But to see every museum, temple, shrine and sight in the city would take several days.