Lastricato lies on the main street of Ushigome, a quiet neighborhood not far from Kagurazaka but quite distinct in character. At first glance, it looks typical of the many mid-range little ristoranti that dot the city these days. Compact but not cramped, chic but not self-conscious, it is worth dressing up for but casual enough to become a regular port of call for those living or working nearby.
What sets it apart from most other middle-range Italian eateries, though, is chef Masakazu Hasumi's massive enthusiasm for vegetables. An energetic man not long out of his 20s, he loads his menu with them, from the opening appetizers and colorful antipasti through to his main courses, where they assume just as much importance as the meat or fish they accompany.
Not that Hasumi is content with the standard-issue tomatoes and basil, zucchini and Italian parsley served elsewhere. He prepares a remarkable variety of roots and greens, of both Mediterranean and Japanese origin. Why this great emphasis on vegetables?