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KANCHANABURI, Thailand — The night before, we were each issued a backpack. Inside was a bottle of water, a packet of electrolyte drink mix, some first-aid stuff, a rain poncho, a pair of leech socks and a field notebook. But instead of studying up on the local ecology and generally preparing ourselves for the planned five-hour trek through the southern tip of Erawan National Park, we chose to drink at our floating hotel’s “jungle bar” and indulge in full-body massages by candlelight.

It was all right, this eco-tourism business.

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