Tonight, our guide Desmond assures us, there is going to be "a very exciting party." The Tibetans are planning a neck-wrestling competition. And you, Desmond adds, as the first foreigners to visit the newly opened hall of Tibetan games and dance, are going to be invited to participate.

"Neck wrestling?"

Desmond explains. Contestants put a rope around their necks and engage in a tug of war. The winner gets to carry the beautiful female singers around the stage.