There's a whole generation out there who have come of age with laid-back, low-priced, modern izakaya, where they feel just as comfortable washing down the oden with wine as they do quaffing shochu with pasta. So when these kids grow up a bit and want to hang out somewhere less boisterous and more adult, where are they supposed to go?

The place should look sophisticated, suitable for a date. But it has to be casual enough that people can drop by on their own for a drink and a bite on the way home from work. Tatami and other trappings of traditional decor are out; counter seating is essential. The drinks must span the gamut from cocktails to jizake, and the kitchen must be just as deft at producing a pizza as slicing sashimi. A dubious name doesn't matter; prices definitely do. In short, somewhere exactly like Good Moon.

Although it's certainly not alone in the burgeoning "fusion dining bar" category, few rivals can boast such a prime location. Good Moon lies on the tranquil left bank of the Meguro River, just a stone's throw away from (but well out of earshot of) busy Komazawa-dori.