Juttoku comes close to being all things to all people. Although it has been around for 20 years, it doesn't attract too much attention, sitting quietly on the edge of the concrete jungle of Shinjuku.

A sugidama, that cedar ball heralding good sake times ahead, and bound stalks of Yamada Nishiki rice hang above the descending staircase. This alone does not a good sake pub make, but it certainly helps set the tone.

Juttoku is large, comprising two floors of tables and large zashiki. The interior is spacious, clean and spiffy, if just a tad contrived. Traditional yellow plaster and dark woodwork create a backdrop for simple flowers and paper streamers announcing what sake is on hand at present.