Designer okonomiyaki may sound like a contradiction in terms, but here in Shirokane it seems to make perfect sense. Where else can you go to drink Pouilly-Fuisse with your pancakes?

She cooks classic nihon ryori -- not as elaborate as kaiseki but with far more sophistication than even the best home cooking. She's not a fundamentalist, though: Your meal is likely to be embellished with touches of originality from way beyond the traditional bounds ...

Inakaya calls itself a robatayaki, a country-style grill, but it's not so much a restaurant as an interactive theater where you get to participate in the show by eating and drinking. The lead roles in this drama are the two yakikata ("grill-persons" is the ...

It would be hard to find a better example in Tokyo of the genre best described as "designer washoku." Too often, after bitter experience, we are tempted to use that epithet as a sneering pejorative. Not so here. Higashi-yama is actually the creation of ...

Owner-chef Yoshinobu Yamada hails from a family of Tsukiji fish merchants. After years learning his metier and polishing the full gamut of culinary skills at such varied operations as Kihachi, Azabu Changjiang and the late (and bemourned by many) Rellenos, he has returned to ...

Most of the soba shops at Jindaiji make their noodles to the traditional nippachi ("two-eight") formula, adding two parts of wheat flour to eight of buckwheat. The natural gluten in the wheat flour binds the buckwheat flour together, so the noodles do not fall ...

Much of Hantei's claim to fame rests on the wonderful old building in which it is housed. Quite simply, it's a classic -- an immaculately preserved three-storied, turn-of-the-last-century town house, all jutting wooden beams and balconies. Its proud frontage is remarkable, even for the ...

He only serves fish caught from the wild; rice from organic farms; naturally brewed rice vinegar, shoyu, miso and mirin; sea salt sun-dried in old-style saltpans; and fertilized eggs from free-range chickens. His water is carefully filtered. And since the day he opened this ...

Matsugen stays open past 10:30 p.m., which is in no way remarkable by Azabu standards but considerably later than the hours most old-school soba-ya subscribe to. Second, it boasts a sizable kitchen staff well-versed in all aspects of Japanese cuisine, not just the art ...

The food is never the main reason for going to any beer garden. And although there it does feel rather institutional at times, Sekirei has much more to choose from than fries and chicken wings.

Although our overall verdict on the food was mixed, that does not mean we wouldn't recommend Good Moon. Next time, we will stick with the sashimi, grilled seafood and other izakaya foods they obviously do so much more successfully.

Ohmatsuya serves the cuisine (and sake) of far-off Yamagata Prefecture -- but this is kyodo ryori refracted through a prism of urbane sophistication. It is quite feasible to order in ippin (a la carte) mode. But the English-language menu (quite understandably) steers those unfamiliar ...

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