This is modern French gastronomy at its best, with precision but not pretension. All the details are right: a trolley laden with cheeses of perfect maturity; desserts of great artistry; a heavyweight wine list (with little under ¥10,000); and polished service that is never ...

These days the menu pays only cursory homage to its namesake region. Besides Burgundian classics, such as Coq au Vin or boeuf Bourguignon, you are just as likely to find Alsace-style choucroute (sauerkraut) or Provencal pissaladiere (thin pizza laden with anchovy and black olives). ...

You can't call it a bistro; the dining room looks way too chic, and the food is several notches too sophisticated. By the same measure, it's not a wine bar either, despite the prominence of the glass-fronted cellar. So is it a full-fledged restaurant? ...

Cassoulet; choucroute; confit de canard; riz de veau; pot-au-feu: all the traditional brasserie staples are there. It is solid fare, with all corners of France represented, cooked impeccably and served in large portions best enjoyed at long, leisurely meals, with lots of wine.

If you are dreaming of culinary magic or hoping to re-create the experience of dining chez Bocuse in France, then you will be mightily disappointed. If you are familiar with the quality of ingredients, attention to detail and sleek expertise that chef Hiroyuki Hiramatsu ...

Shoehorned into a space that would be considered cramped even for a ramen shop -- you literally have to squeeze sideways to get to the back -- it can seat precisely 13 customers at the counter and four more at a shelf-like table wedged ...

Voisin is a chef who obviously loves his metier and his new kitchen. From time to time, he emerges from the kitchen to greet his customers, eager to talk about ingredients, cooking techniques and the pleasure he is deriving from being here in Japan.

What makes this place so special -- and unique among bars where you stand -- is the quality of the food. The menu is huge, ranging from snacks such as olives, ham (jamon serrano Iberico, naturally) and broad beans in their skins to hearty ...

He cooks in the modern Tokyo idiom, unafraid to fuse Japanese delicacy and outside influences to French fundamentals. At lunchtime he keeps it simple, catering to the impatient office crowd. It is at dinnertime that Restaurant t.r comes into its own.

In our book, anything that's been slowly grilled over charcoal -- and as long as it's not slathered in a thick, savory, soy-based tare sauce -- goes beautifully with wine. And if the kitchen is using fine ingredients and premium charcoal, especially the variety ...

There are half a dozen choices of hors d'oeuvres, a couple of soups, and half a dozen main dishes. All derive from the basic brasserie tradition, but everything is executed with great expertise.

Even more innovative is the menu. There is a fixed, four-course menu of the day, but you are under no obligation to order it. The long a la carte menu features two dozen "petites assiettes degustation" — tapas, essentially — and it is entirely ...

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