The offerings by over 40 designers at the recent Tokyo collections mapped out the direction for next autumn/winter: bias or asymmetrical cuts, draping and wrapping, patchwork, fringing and quilting, and lots of stripes (both vertical and horizontal).

A growing interest in high-tech fabrics was apparent, and several designers -- Masafumi Yoshikawa, Eri Matsui and Naoki Takizawa among them -- used them with considerable success.

Fur was another keyword: Philip Waghorne for Takeo Nishida, Kohshin Satoh at Arrston Volaju, Tae Ashida at Miss Ashida and Keita Maruyama for Keita Maruyama Paris Tokyo sent out smart ensembles featuring dyed, sheared or natural-color furs.