The Stillness of Yamadera: Matsuo Bashō’s Haiku Journey

2,400 kilometers. This is roughly the distance from Tokyo to Hong Kong, a journey a renowned haiku poet covered on foot in approximately five months over 300 years ago. That poet was Matsuo Bashō, and the travelogue chronicling his journey is Oku no Hosomichi (The Narrow Road to the Deep North).

Accompanied by his disciple, Sora, he departed from Edo (present-day Tokyo) and traveled through the Tohoku and Hokuriku regions.

About a month and a half into his journey, having entered Yamagata Prefecture, he seems to have visited Yamadera Temple. It was an unscheduled stop, after being recommended by locals as a “must-see.” He departed from Obanazawa City, Yamagata Prefecture early that morning and arrived at Yamadera Temple in the evening. He is said to have visited the Okunoin (inner sanctuary) before nightfall. A haiku composed during this visit, shizukesa ya / iwa ni shimiiru / semi no koe (The stillness / the cicadas’ cries / sink into the rocks) is considered one of Bashō’s most famous.

Interestingly, the original haiku was “Yamadera ya ishi ni shimitsuku semi no koe” (At Yamadera Temple, the cicada’s cry permeates the stones). However, it was revised multiple times, and the final version shizukasa ya / iwa ni shimiiru / semi no koe (such stillness / sinking into the rocks / the cries of cicadas) appeared in Oku no Hosomichi. Why he made these changes, and what Bashō felt at the time, remains unknown, but the location, Yamadera Temple (Hōjūzan Risshaku-ji Temple), may have inspired the alteration. Halfway up the thousand stone steps, a “semi-zuka” (cicada mound) has been erected, containing a tanzaku (narrow strip of paper) with this haiku written by a later disciple, marking the spot where Bashō is believed to have composed it. Why not visit this place and experience Bashō’s feelings? You might even be inspired to compose a poem of your own.

Yamadera Bashō Memorial Hall is Located south of Hojzan Risshaku-ji Temple, across from the JR Senzan Line, built to commemorate the 300th anniversary of Bashō’s journey as described in Oku no Hosomichi. Situated on a hilltop offering a panoramic view of Hojuzan Risshaku-ji Temple, the hall uses the temple as a backdrop, showcasing its beauty throughout the seasons: cherry blossoms and fresh greenery in spring, lush foliage in summer, vibrant autumn leaves, and winter snow scenes reminiscent of ink paintings. But it’s not just the building and scenery that are remarkable; the exhibits are superb. The collection includes numerous works in Bashō’s own hand, including a letter written by Bashō himself, and many designated cultural properties by Yamagata City. Such a large collection of Bashō’s original writings is rare nationwide.

Admiration for the predecessors who honed their literary skills through travel appears in the haiku poem commentary called Yo ni furu mo(Like in this World). Haru mo ya ya (Advent of Spring) painted by pupil Kyoriku, uses a blooming plum tree and the moon to visually represent Bashō’s haiku, which joyfully welcomes the long-awaited spring. These exhibits illuminate not only Bashō’s Oku no Hosomichi, but offer a glimpse into his entire life.

Experience unparalleled artistry at the Yamadera Bashō Memorial Hall this year. From June 20th to July 14th, 2025, the “Masterpiece Collection Exhibition” unveils a curated selection of exceptional works, extending beyond the poet’s own legacy. Following this, immerse yourselves in the captivating realm of yokai in the “Yokai Exhibition,” running from July 18th to September 2nd. This exploration of yokai in literature and art offers a unique perspective on the rich tapestry of Japanese culture.

After viewing the impressive exhibits, we recommend enjoying Matcha (green tea) with Japanese sweets (wagashi). It will be a valuable experience, offering a much-needed break from your busy days. You can purchase entrance and sweets separately, but a combination ticket offering admission and a matcha experience is available at a reduced price. When visiting Yamadera Temple, we encourage you to spend some time at the Yamadera Bashō Memorial Hall, a structure harmoniously integrated with nature, reflecting on Bashō’s achievements and journey.

Ready to explore one of these fascinating exhibitions? Come visit Yamagata for these unique cultural experiences!

For more information, visit: https://yamadera-basho.jp/