Food & Drink Jan 6, 2018
Munch like a monarch as you walk with the gods on Miyajima
Beyond the island's iconic torii, oysters, okonomiyaki, eel and manjū await.
Books / Reviews | ESSENTIAL READING FOR JAPANOPHILES Dec 2, 2017
'A Brief History of Japan': Jonathan Clements guides readers from ancient lore to otaku obsessions
Ask any Japanese high school student which is their most difficult subject, and chances are they'll answer Japanese History — a consequence of the endless litany of dates, names and battles they need to memorize. Pity then, that they don't use this little book ...
Travel Nov 17, 2017
Communing with the gods in Hiroshima's kagura performances
Music and dance spectacle is part of Japan's rich performing arts heritage.
Travel Apr 14, 2017
Among the monks: Dipping a toe in Zen at Shinshoji Temple
When was the last time you sat in silence, without fretting about the things you ought to be doing or gazing at a screen of any kind? When was the last time you didn't think anything at all? If this is something you do regularly, ...
Travel Dec 12, 2015
The changing view of Onomichi town
Last September, the town of Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture became a headline-grabbing topic around the world with its Cat Street View project. In its first two weeks online, this Google-style map of the town, filmed from a cat's perspective, went viral, racking up 1.7 ...
Travel Nov 21, 2015
The Hiroshima art triangle: a space to get lost in thought
'It's Tokyo minus the stress." That's how one Japanese colleague described Hiroshima to us shortly after my wife, Angeles, and I arrived here, near the end of the last millennium. So, what's its secret? Well, there's its size for a start. And having six ...
Travel Sep 12, 2015
Sweeping beauties of Kumano's brush area
In the soft morning drizzle, a handful of people line up before an altar-like mound of stones where a small fire crackles and hisses. Each person in turn throws a handful of old brushes into the blaze. The local garbage incinerator? No — this ...
Travel Jul 18, 2015
Yuki's hot pools and cool trails are truly the stuff of legends
According to legend, the hot spring in Yuki town, in western Hiroshima Prefecture, was discovered way back in the sixth century, when villagers noticed an injured heron bathing in the waters. Somewhat later, the Asano lords, who ruled the Hiroshima area from 1619 till ...
Travel May 9, 2015
Dancing on the waves at Miyajima
"The mystery of the Orient is legendary . . . it was in the air the moment we stepped ashore in Kyoto, and now in Tokyo it began to envelop us." That's how Charlie Chaplin described his arrival in Japan. I'm not sure if ...
Travel Nov 15, 2014
Tomonoura: lost in a storied landscape
The priest from Fukuzenji Temple is sitting cross-legged on a cushion in front of us like a Zen-sage. He has his back to a window of the Taichoro Guesthouse as he explains the significance of the astounding view before us. We are looking out ...