With 39 shows, the fourth Japan Fashion Week, from March 12 to 16, was the biggest to date. And, with several top brands announcing their imminent emigration to the runways of Paris,the cosmopolitan cachet was further enhanced by the presence of foreign journalists invited as official guests -- among them was one of the world's undisputed fashion mavens, who here offers her take on a Tokyo gala that has, it seems, some way to go in its quest for global status.