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Review excerpt: Sobagami is a soba noodle specialist, but it is also an offshoot of the very genteel Ginza Kamiya, a high-end kappō that takes pride in doing things the right way.
Voisin is a chef who obviously loves his metier and his new kitchen. From time to time, he emerges from the kitchen to greet his customers, eager to talk about ingredients, cooking techniques and the pleasure he is deriving from being here in Japan.
As always with Shunju, the quality is superb: premium ingredients, their provenance listed, and selected to reflect the season, cooked perfectly with no artificial seasonings and arranged beautifully on fine vessels of ceramic, glass and lacquer. Here at Tsugihagi, though, there is greater emphasis ...
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