Imagine a classic old-school yokochō, a compact enclave of narrow pedestrian alleys lined with small, low-rise restaurants, hole-in-the-wall noodle counters, pubs and assorted drinking dens. They still exist around Tokyo, holdovers from a bygone era but still essential ports of call for the afterwork crowd.

Now envisage a scrubbed-up, modern version. You'll find the same motley mix of ramen, burger and kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi joints, even an old-school kissaten coffee shop or izakaya tavern alongside the stand-up beer and sake bars. But this yokochō is not only bright and clean; it's entirely sealed in, one floor below ground level. Such is the scenario at Chaos Kitchen.

Beckoning bugs: The enticing neon entrance of Kome to Circus. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON
Beckoning bugs: The enticing neon entrance of Kome to Circus. | ROBBIE SWINNERTON