To call Inua the most hotly awaited restaurant this year would be inaccurate. But that's only because its opening, at the very end of June, came a mere matter of weeks after it was first announced. There was little time for the excitement to build.

Even so, word spread fast. After all, any operation that springs directly from the lineage of Noma, the most influential restaurant in Northern Europe, is most decidedly a huge deal. Especially since the man in charge at Inua, Thomas Frebel, spent 10 years in the Noma fold, as both a chef and head of research and development.

Anticipation is rewarded from the very first dish of Frebel's opening summer dinner menu: morsels of snack pineapple — so called because the flesh of the fruit pulls away with each scale — paired with small segments of yuzu and other citrus bathed in a rich oil infused with caramelized konbu (kelp).