La Maison du Isshovin is unlike any other restaurant in the Asakusa area. It's not just the name, improbable as it sounds. Nor is it the eclectic — some might say eccentric — menu, or even the contemporary architecture that can't help but catch the eye in this old-school part of town.

What really makes this new arrival stand out is that it brings a brisk, bright enthusiasm to a district that remains hidebound by tradition and tourism. And that reflects the energetic personality of restaurant producer Hisae Iwakura, who not only realized the idea, but is also there in person, taking care of the day-to-day business.

Over the past couple of decades, Iwakura has been the driving force behind some of the most dynamic eating and drinking places in the city. Kinsai, Kitchen Cero and Cafe Bleu are still going strong. And longtime Tokyo residents still remember with affection the now-closed Bongout Noh and, before that, Buchi, the stylish bar in nether-Shibuya that made it cool to stand as you eat and drink.