Despite the excellent provender, it is still the cellar that is the outstanding feature of Arossa. Takeshita has assembled some 700 bottles, ranging from the simple and basic to the rarefied — and he says he sells nothing he doesn’t like himself. He has ...

The drinks list is split between wine (20 by the glass from ¥500; far more by the bottle, from ¥2,500), sake and shochu, and the food spans a similar divide, encompassing carpaccio, sashimi, stews, kushiyaki grills and three or four kinds of pasta.

At dinnertime, ever-energetic owner/manager Hisae Iwakura (pictured right) offers a wide selection of wines (including many Japanese ones) to go with the tasty hybrid Japanese-Mediterranean cuisine.

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