In charge of the grill is Tomohiko Abe, Ikegawa’s youthful right-hand man from Torishiki. He is working side by side with Yasunori Yamamoto, whose background is in Italian cuisine. It sounds hybrid, but it works wonderfully.

Chef Ryotaro Miyauchi got experience at a number of small-scale winemakers during his stay in France, so he knows his oenology. But he’s also a trained chef, so the food menu is every bit as important.

In the right hands, the simple act of grilling skewers of chicken over glowing coals of charcoal produces one of the supreme delicacies of Japanese cuisine, well worthy of a such a tasteful setting. Those hands belong to yakitori maestro Yoshiteru Ikegawa.

The basic choice is simple: rosu (fatty pork) or hire (lean) — and rosu is the more popular here by a margin of over two to one. But there is also a third option: kushikatsu, small cuts of pork (mostly lean but not always), ...

Beard. What sort of name is that for a restaurant, least of all one serving French-inflected food? And what chef would have the word daubed in orange paint across his front door, on the diagonal no less? One with a quirky sense of humor, ...

With all due respect to Chicago and all other Italian enclaves spread across America, what we want is real Neapolitan pizza — the way Hisayoshi Majima makes it.

Quienquiera is an evening space, for quiet communion over a drink or three. Rather than a place for dining out, it is more a modern incarnation of the kind of izakaya where you snack as you imbibe, and where conversation is the main lubricant.

Trattoria della Lanterna Magica is the quintessential Tokyo neighborhood trattoria. Not just because it is always bustling and friendly, serves excellent, unpretentious cucina and does so at prices that are always affordable, but because it is far enough from the beaten track that it ...

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