All four compass points of the subcontinent are covered. Yes, they have rich, buttery curries in the usual Mogul style of North India, but they also have preparations from Kerala in the far south. There are spicy fish curries from Calcutta and mutton dishes ...

On the subject of sausage, another German friend recommended Chozumeya Kamakura, a takeaway counter that does a brisk trade in hot-off-the-grill handmade sausages.

Ichikanjin is a bright little noodle counter (it also has a couple of tables) with cheerful, slightly quirky decor, jazz or bossa nova on the sound system and a good selection of beers. And, most importantly, some very tasty ramen: Shio (salt-based), shoyu (soy ...

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