From the very first bite — most likely a monaka wafer stuffed with rich foie gras — to the final mouthful — invariably a trompe l’oeil dessert — dinner at Den unfolds with a series of unothodoxies, visual puns, witticisms and even conjuring tricks. ...

Instead of generic Shanghai cuisine — actually a relatively recent construct — Kankyo Shuten specializes in the culinary traditions of Ningbo, a much older port city to the south of the modern metropolis. The basic flavors are not so different, but Ningbo cooking tends ...

The service is straightforward and unpretentious, and so is the cooking. Shinsekai is of the Shanghainese persuasion, which means the sweet, oil-laden dishes of the China’s eastern provinces predominate. But there is also a strong infusion of Sichuan influences to enliven the palate with ...

Besides being admirably affordable — this neighborhood has long been the domain of students and low-status salarymen — the cooking is assured and the menu remarkably adventurous.

What’s on the menu? And, more to the point, what’s good? Just about everything that is given the teppan treatment. One of the highlights is the juicy miso-marinated imo-buta, a breed of pig fed primarily on sweet potatoes.

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