This is gourmet yakitori (and that’s no longer a contradiction in terms) for the Dancyu generation — well-heeled men, predominantly, with educated taste buds, who are no longer content to squeeze into raucous, smoke-filled plebeian nomiya or squat under the arches at Yurakucho quaffing ...

Ohmatsuya serves the cuisine (and sake) of far-off Yamagata Prefecture — but this is kyodo ryori refracted through a prism of urbane sophistication. It is quite feasible to order in ippin (a la carte) mode. But the English-language menu (quite understandably) steers those unfamiliar ...

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