Last December when it opened, lines formed around the block to sample the trademark seafood ramen. Unlike Kyushu-style agodashi broths, which are light and clear, the soups at Gonokami Suisan are thick and comforting, like a French bisque.

Kamo-nanban soba remains a Tokyo classic, with generous slices of duck cooked perfectly rare on top of the slender hand-cut noodles. So too the iconic ten-seiro soba, with the crisp patty of shrimp tempura served alongside the cold soba.

Like a skilled artisan trained in a single specialized discipline that’s been honed to perfection, Botan has only ever focused on one dish: chicken sukiyaki. The recipe never changes and nor does the way it’s cooked, over that small charcoal brazier sitting right at ...

Kemuri is a place for casual nibbling, eating and whiling away the evening, rather than for formal, full-scale dining. As the name indicates — kemuri is Japanese for smoke — the menu revolves around an extensive selection of smoked delicacies, all of them prepared ...

Because the noodles are te-uchi — freshly rolled and chopped by hand by a white-clad assistant who works nonstop in the glass-fronted booth at the back of the room — aficionados prefer to eat them unadorned, either mori (cold, with a dip) or zaru ...

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