Fukushima Mori

I'm seated at one end of a wooden counter, hewn from the dark wood of a bubinga tree and streaked with hues of purple and red. The white pebbles in a nearby rock garden fan out around a patch of moss shaded by a ...

Cafe Bahnhof

One of the first and only sentences I mastered in three years of (not) learning German was "Wo ist der Bahnhof?" ("Where is the station?") I never thought I'd have a chance to put this into practice in Japan, but my hopes were raised ...

Eloge de l’Ombre

What makes a good restaurant? It's a pretty basic question, and one that I imagine is on most people's minds, even if you aren't actively aware of it. With a new restaurant, such as EO, this question and the search for answers are more ...

Okuman

Okuman is all about the fish: head, bones, fins and tail. And eyes and scales, and entrails too — that's what you get at Okuman. Apologies, I have been overwhelmed by kids' songs lately. It was after eight on a weeknight when we dropped by ...

Wakisaka

Wakisaka is a mom-and-pop restaurant that specializes in Osaka's soul food: okonomiyaki. From what I could tell the small but cozy restaurant abuts their living quarters so that the pair don't have far to travel. Mom works the floor while Pop works the teppan, ...

Garb Monaque

Garb Monaque, a cafe, bar and restaurant, occupies a funky building — think of a birdcage that's been twisted at both ends — between Osaka Station and Grand Front Osaka, two playgrounds devoted to conspicuous consumption. And the funkiness doesn't end with the building's design. ...

Craft Beer Base

Osaka has been going through a minor boom in craft beer bars over the past few years. This is undoubtedly good news for drinkers who want more than what's on offer from the big four brewers of Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo and Suntory. Craft Beer Base, ...

Ore Beate

Judging by the staggering number of Italian and French restaurants in Japan it would be hard to call which European cuisine is more popular: perhaps both, equally. But this cuts both ways. In the West, Asian restaurants are on every corner. Even in the lowly ...

Owl Family Cafe

Let's address the coffee first. It's as good as anything you'll get from a convenience store, which is to say it's not good. At all. The only beer on offer is Budweiser — also known as "The King of Beers." It's not. Budweiser wouldn't ...

Matsumoto Eiraku

The establishments around Matsumoto Eiraku in Osaka's Kitashinchi neighborhood have names like La Madonna, Salon de Miyu, Lady Hawk and Blanc de Blanc. This may suggest the restaurant keeps ostentatious company, but you should never judge a building by its marble colonnades; the aesthetic ...