Volo Cosi

Another year of eating our way around Tokyo draws to its well-fed conclusion. We have dined well in 2008 — we invariably do, of course — with many memorable evenings and lunches spent at the table. Among the highlights was finally making our way ...

Nezu Club

Just like stepping back in time. The soul of traditional Tokyo. Ancient Edo preserved in amber. Such are the received-wisdom stereotypes about the Yanasen triangle -- the shitamachi districts of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi. The tourist-office cliches would have you believe this area is stuck ...

Shilingol

A chill gale of change is gusting through the sumo world, all the way from Central Asia. The demise of the Takanohana era does not, of course, mean we will stop eating chanko nabe. However, in honor of the incipient arrival of the Asashoryu ...

Obana is certainly not the most illustrious of Tokyo's unagi restaurants. How could it be when most of the flash money lies west of the Ginza, not up in blue-collar Arakawa-ku? But there are plenty of people, especially those of humbler birth, who will ...

Maui Mike's

Something newsworthy has happened (well, newsworthy if you follow dining micro-trends): A new restaurant from Hawaii has opened in Tokyo and it doesn't serve pancakes. Maui Mike's (5-32-13 Hakusan, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo; 03-3830-0139; www.mauimikes.jp) serves chicken — glistening rotisserie chicken that spends two hours making ...

Misotetsu Kagiroi

Hidden away on a narrow backstreet in Ogawamachi, one of Tokyo's old-school carousing districts, Misotetsu Kagiroi is far from your typical izakaya tavern. Unlike most of its neighbors, it does not sport a large red lantern outside to grab your attention. Nor are you ...

Moomin Bakery & Cafe

Dear readers, I have made a wonderful discovery: Finnish cinnamon rolls, korvapuusti, are not just cinnamon rolls. They are cinnamon and cardamom rolls and they are delicious. Also, korvapuusti translates to "slapped ear" — perhaps because the dough is rolled rather than coiled — ...

Anis

Hatsudai has a lot going for it. This quiet low-rise residential neighborhood just minutes west of Shinjuku boasts a friendly traditional shōtengai (shopping street) and a lively annual Awa Odori dance festival. Now add to that a really outstanding restaurant. Anis opened in early August ...

Sasuga Hanare

There are a number of places around the city these days that combine carefully crafted te-uchi handmade noodles with refined Japanese cuisine. Few, if any, do it with greater accomplishment than Sasuga Hanare, the third in this group of innovative, stylish soba restaurants. Where the ...