Pappon Kitchen

It's remarkable what a good chef can do with a single burner, a rice cooker and plenty of prep. Take a look at the countless street-food artisans across Asia. Or, much closer to home, just drop into Pappon Kitchen and observe a masterclass in ...

Mikkeller Tokyo

Mikkel Borg Bjergso, co-founder of the Danish microbrewery Mikkeller, is a man who likes a challenge. At the opening of the new Mikkeller bar in Shibuya, Bjergso tells me that his next goal is to finish the Berlin Marathon next September in two hours ...

Salmon & Trout

Three things you need to know before seeking out Salmon & Trout: It's a 10-minute walk from the nearest suburban station, both inside and out, it looks as much like a bicycle showroom as it does a restaurant, and rarely — if ever — ...

Kamiyama

Arriving at Kamiyama could hardly be more atmospheric. The entrance is set into a black wooden wall along a quiet residential side street. Ankle-high traditional lamps illuminate a short flight of bamboo-fringed flagstones, leading to a sliding wooden door hidden behind a dark noren ...

Kaikaya

We were in the mood for eating Japanese -- nothing too fancy, but somewhere modern, with a sense of style, to match the elevated state engendered by strolling under the Meguro-gawa blossoms. We couldn't get into our favorite watering holes alongside the river. So ...

Abasque

One area of Tokyo that remains off many people's radar is the small quadrant known informally as Upper Shibuya. Far from the neon glare of the Hachiko Crossing, it has more in common with Aoyama, apart from the prices. Lower overheads mean affordable restaurants, ...

Unosato

In a city as rapidly changing as Tokyo, it's a major feat for any restaurant to survive over four decades. To do so on the edge of Shibuya's teenage wasteland is even more remarkable. So let's raise a cup — of premium sake of ...

Patinastella

From the hubbub of central Shibuya, the walk to Patinastella takes only five minutes, but it feels like jumping several time zones. This spacious, glass-enclosed dining room could have been beamed from an affluent neighborhood of Los Angeles. Celebrity chef Joachim Splichal, who heads the ...

Napoli Pizza Tokyo Bakka

Al fresco pizza and beer. It doesn't get much better than this in the middle of Shibuya. Who cares if your seat is a hard, narrow trestle, the view is an inner-city abandoned lot and the pies are served on flimsy paper plates from ...

Kugatsu-do

Born in China and raised in Japan, ramen's hybrid heritage has evolved into a wide range of different guises. At one end of the spectrum are the alpha-male turbo-charged tonkotsu counters. At the other, you find lightness, delicacy and refinement. That's the way Kugatsu-do ...