L'As

It is always a pleasure to discover a great new restaurant — and even more so when "new" means a lot more than just "recently opened." L'As is a small place with a young crew and a location that is easy to overlook. But ...

L'Effervescence

The bubbly season is upon us. The illuminations and Christmas music have been with us for weeks already, but now we're into December, it's high time to think about where to uncork a quiet commemorative bottle or two. Somewhere special and secluded, with plush ...

Cicada

Readers of this column over the past seven years will be well aware of our abiding love of the food and wine of the western Mediterranean. Anyone who has eaten his or her way around Spain will understand. From the seafood of Galicia and ...

Beacon

The stock market's up and ditto consumer spending. Real estate is rebounding and there's even talk of another bubble. No surprise then that we've been seeing plenty of upmarket restaurants opening in recent months. Better still, some of our favorite restaurateurs are getting into ...

Ristorante Cortesia

Twenty-five years ago the idea of mixing Japanese and Western cuisines was tantamount to heresy. A decade or so back it was cutting-edge novelty, embraced (and then almost as quickly disparaged) as "fusion." These days, in Tokyo at least, it is fast becoming the ...

Un Cafe

Going back to favorite restaurants after a gap of several years is much like meeting up with an old flame after being out of touch for too long. Anticipation is likely to be tempered by a good measure of anxiety. How have they changed? ...

Underground Mr. Zoogunzoo has an interior to match its singular name. The walls are daubed with adobe designs, as if decorated by aboriginal dot artists. Light diffuses from opaque lamp shades resembling irregular crystals or the seed pods of an alien life form. At the ...

Aburiya

Autumn is here, the season of antipasti misti and fruitful mellowness. It's also the time of year, of course, for bountiful supplies of mushrooms and other miscellaneous fungi known collectively as kinoko -- like the excellent assortment we enjoyed the other day at Aburiya, ...

Omotesando Koffee

The Monocle Cafe — the first in the world created by the eponymous international lifestyle magazine — looks just the way you'd expect. Sleek but comfortable, with light-wood furniture in a modern Scandinavian vein, it blends in perfectly with the designer boutiques inside Hankyu ...