Kamozou

In this gloomiest of seasons, when the skies are leaden and the streets clogged with dripping umbrellas, we find there's only one recourse: Head for a favorite neighborhood eatery and hunker down, glass in hand. If we're anywhere near Kagurazaka and sake is what ...

Martiniburger

Martiniburger. It's a great name for a restaurant. Even before you arrive you can picture it in your mind: As sleek as a cocktail lounge, with subtle lighting, cool music and even cooler people tucking into prime patties of best beef. And you wouldn't ...

Maison de la Bourgogne

At long last it's safe to come out from under the air conditioning. The heat has finally broken, our appetites have perked up, and there are some long, balmy evenings ahead — perfect for some leisurely outdoor dining. Tokyo has never been a great city ...

Seigetsu

It's the constant conundrum we all face when we arrive in a strange city or wander into an unfamiliar neighborhood. Among the profusion of restaurants and bars, how can you tell which ones are any good? One rule of thumb that has stood us ...

Le Train Bleu Iwatocho

Tokyo is awash with wine these days. Any restaurant that wants to be taken seriously -- and, more importantly, has high overheads to cover -- must boast a well-stocked cellar, preferably glass-fronted, carefully illuminated and strategically placed in full view of the dining room. Some ...

Ristorante Lastricato

Lastricato lies on the main street of Ushigome, a quiet neighborhood not far from Kagurazaka but quite distinct in character. At first glance, it looks typical of the many mid-range little ristoranti that dot the city these days. Compact but not cramped, chic but ...

Tribes

Not so long ago, Kagurazaka was one of this city's most traditional neighborhoods, its alleys still echoing from the days when it was an important geisha district. Though some of its old character survives, these days it has much more of an international nature ...

Stefano

You don't have to go far in Tokyo to track down good Italian food. Virtually every neighborhood boasts its own ristoranti and trattorie these days, many of them with impeccable standards. The problem is, though, the places with the best cucina tend to be ...

Brasserie de l'Institut

Every year around this time we get the same plaintive inquiries: "Isn't there anywhere half decent in this city where you can eat outdoors?" And, as always, the answer is "yes -- and no." If you're just looking for a place that flings open its ...

Akagi Cafe

With its bustling streets and atmospheric back alleys, Kagurazaka is one of the best places in the city to simply stroll and explore. And when your legs start to tire or the rain starts to fall, there are numerous neighborhood eateries where you can ...