Botan

On one side of the battered shōji screen with its panels of flimsy washi paper, the sleet and biting wind. On the other, a small old-fashioned hibachi brazier, its coals glowing softly. There's no contest: At Botan, the charcoal wins every time. But that flickering ...

Chabuton

A ramen aficionado might scoff at the idea of a meatless broth. That pork or chicken essence, I'm told, is what gives ramen its characteristic hearty kick. There are, however, a handful of brave shops around Tokyo that can hold their own against ...