It’s not the sort of place where you order, slurp and then dash off back to work. It feels cozy and comfortable, a place where you can settle in for a bit, even at lunchtime. And that is just as well, since Muto now ...

Incredible handmade soba. I had kamojiru soba, a bowl of sauteed duck served with noodles thin enough to thread through the eye of a needle, and topped with sansho peppers; this is food approaching edible art.

I order the zaru soba for around ¥700. The noodles are served plain and chilled with just a few nori flakes sprinkled on top, with a side of dipping sauce. The sauce in most soba restaurants does, unfortunately, have fish-based dashi as an ingredient, ...

The great film director Akira Kurosawa was a connoisseur of Japanese cuisine in the widest sense — he especially liked his meat and chicken, it is reported. But he was also an aficionado of te-uchi (fresh, handmade) soba. So that is why, after his ...

Most of the soba shops at Jindaiji make their noodles to the traditional nippachi (“two-eight”) formula, adding two parts of wheat flour to eight of buckwheat. The natural gluten in the wheat flour binds the buckwheat flour together, so the noodles do not fall ...

Matsugen stays open past 10:30 p.m., which is in no way remarkable by Azabu standards but considerably later than the hours most old-school soba-ya subscribe to. Second, it boasts a sizable kitchen staff well-versed in all aspects of Japanese cuisine, not just the art ...

Ohmatsuya serves the cuisine (and sake) of far-off Yamagata Prefecture — but this is kyodo ryori refracted through a prism of urbane sophistication. It is quite feasible to order in ippin (a la carte) mode. But the English-language menu (quite understandably) steers those unfamiliar ...

Because the noodles are te-uchi — freshly rolled and chopped by hand by a white-clad assistant who works nonstop in the glass-fronted booth at the back of the room — aficionados prefer to eat them unadorned, either mori (cold, with a dip) or zaru ...

Even at its most basic — at a stand-and-slurp noodle counter, say, on a station platform — it’s a winning combination. But prepared with care, diligence and quality ingredients, the combination is one of the modest masterpieces of Japanese cuisine. That’s the way it’s ...

The buckwheat grain is ground fresh each day in the small stone mill that sits in one corner of the dining room. Then it is mixed to a dough (with no added wheat flour), rolled out and sliced into fine strands. That’s the thud ...

Noodles, of course, form the core of Hosokawa’s menu but, as at most artisan soba-ya, there is also an appetizing selection of starters prepared with a level of expertise that will impress even the most hardcore of soba aficionados. There is good sake to ...

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