Put pesto with fried potatoes of this standard accompanied by cream cheese and you might pass out from umami overload. It’s enough to inspire poetry, or bad haikus.

Sake is the raison d’être of Nozaki Sakaten— not the cheap mass-marketed version of Japan’s national tipple made by the major sake companies, but jizake, quality brews crafted on an artisan scale by smaller regional kura (breweries), especially limited-edition versions that are often hard to get hold of beyond their ...

There is no imperative to order oden — nor to have a whole meal, although there are set courses if you don’t want the hassle of thumbing through the Japanese-only menu in the very dim light. Most people just take a dish or two ...

There are several reasons why Adan is invariably full every evening, despite such an unpromising location. There’s the setting, an unusual old redbrick kura storehouse, beautifully refurbished and decorated with boldly colored wood carvings. But most people are there because Adan exudes the kind ...

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