Ohmatsuya serves the cuisine (and sake) of far-off Yamagata Prefecture -- but this is kyodo ryori refracted through a prism of urbane sophistication. It is quite feasible to order in ippin (a la carte) mode. But the English-language menu (quite understandably) steers those unfamiliar with the genre toward the set courses. There are three levels: the "Snow" course (7,000 yen); "Moon" (8,000 yen); and "Flower" (9,500 yen). The difference is not so much the number or volume of dishes, but the quality of the ingredients.