Review excerpt: Ogawa is not rooted in the old ways. Instead of following the standard izakaya (traditional tavern) mode — where customers linger all evening, drinking and ordering yakitori a few sticks at a time — it operates more like a sushi or tempura restaurant, with a fixed menu and tempo. Once you are in and seated, you can relax, lean back and wait for each course to arrive. Just as a high-end sushi feast invariably opens with appetizers — often sashimi, but also cooked fish dishes — the meal at Yakitori Ogawa follows a similar pattern. After a tray of zensai (appetizers) to prime the palate, the first course is served: tori-sashi (chicken sashimi).