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Izuei Umegawatei

This old-school unagi (eel) specialist stands in the heart of Ueno Park, just steps from the zoo and the historic Toshogu Shrine, surrounded by a sea of sakura (cherry blossoms). That's the view from the upstairs dining room, if you are lucky (or patient) enough to snare one of the tables -- and happy to sit in traditional style at low tables on tatami mats.