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Pappon Kitchen

The kitchen of this tiny one-counter Thai diner tucked away on the second floor of an anonymous building on the fringe of Shibuya is barely bigger than a phone booth. But the menu lists dozens of options, from stir-fries and spicy yam “salads” to curries and noodles, and with plenty of favorites from the Isaan region of northeast Thailand. In deference to Japanese palates, chili levels are significantly milder than they’d be in Bangkok. But that doesn’t mean the dishes lack flavor.