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L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Even more innovative is the menu. There is a fixed, four-course menu of the day, but you are under no obligation to order it. The long a la carte menu features two dozen "petites assiettes degustation" -- tapas, essentially -- and it is entirely permissible to sit down, order soup and bread, say, or a glass of wine with a plate of crudites, and then call for your bill.