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Bullicio

Excerpt review: Chef Koji Sato has managed the culinary transition from Portugal to Spain with aplomb. As at his other restaurant, the cooking is confident and full flavored. He doesn’t stint on the Iberico ham in his croquettes. He makes a fine version of albondigas (meat balls) using ground lamb meat. And he has good recipes for callos, the tripe stew with chickpeas that is so popular in Madrid, and esqueixada, adding white beans to the classic Catalan salad of salt cod and tomato. He also cures his own bacon and stuffs his own sausages, both a plain pork botifarra and a richer, darker morcilla (blood sausage) variety.